For Miss T.J. and I, it was an evening filled with anticipation of our first supper at Il Pasticcio.

To see, and be seen, at busy Broughton and Bull streets, Il Pasticcio is the spot. Its big windows provide an unobstructed view of passersby and a tantalizingly voyeuristic peek inside its decidedly cosmopolitan interior. Good taste extends beyond the décor — all the way into the kitchen.

And what comes out of the kitchen is both a testament to the talent of Executive Chef Franco Marra and the confidence he has earned from owner Pino Venetico.

But Venetico has had confidence in his concept since opening Il Pasticcio in 1993; first as a family-style Italian eatery and then, in 1998, making the transition to the restaurant’s current configuration.

Initially, others thought that Venetico was maybe just a bit “pazzo” — insane.

“They said, ‘Broughton Street is dying, and this guy is coming in and investing a million dollars,’” the former chief financial officer for Intermarine USA explained. “Sometimes I thought I was crazy!”

While he may not be the reigning grandfather of Broughton Street business owners, a title likely shared by Levy Jewelers and Globe Shoe Co., Venetico is at least its godfather. And the restaurant’s staff, many of whom have lengthy tenures, are his family.

Venetico’s eyes are on the details, but he places significant trust in his crew. Marra joined the Il Pasticcio family in 1998; our waiter has been on staff for nine years — impressive stats for a typically dynamic industry.

The detail-driven mindset of the accountant clearly carries over into the Broughton Street landmark. But Venetico doesn’t equate the restaurant in terms of balance sheets — he compares it to theatre.

“When you walk in here,” he explains, “it’s like a Broadway show; we’re performing for the people. It’s not just about the food experience — but (guests) must feel the energy from the staff. The whole environment is the experience.”

He shifts to the Big Screen, and suddenly becomes the director, sitting comfortably in a booth, clad in a long-sleeved black T-shirt, and his eyes are fired with emotion:

“It’s like a great film. Everything must synchronize: the hostess, the bartender, the server, the manager checking on your service. People who leave and say it was great had that experience. If they leave and say it was just OK, then we failed in one of those areas. You only accomplish that level of service when you have great people working for you.”

He means people like General Manager Michael O’Sullivan, who runs the front of the house and, with Venetico, manages daily operations.

Venetico’s passion is tempered by O’Sullivan’s steady temperament. The son of a Sears and Roebuck Co. employee, O’Sullivan grew up in a time and place when his father drilled into him the premise that the customer is always right. That legacy of customer service is paying off as O’Sullivan gets his own crack at detail and extraordinary service — like providing black table linens for customers who are wearing black.

“No lint on their clothing,” O’Sullivan explains.

Stepping through the door that busy night, we were greeted by the sound of people actually enjoying themselves —laughing, clapping, clinking glasses. SCAD kids sat across from their parents, sipping adult-like from wine glasses. Small children seemed right at home, picking their way through plates of ravioli.

It then occurred to me that this delicious restaurant that is so often placed on an elegant pedestal is, well, still a family restaurant in the vein of its Italian counterparts. It’s a place where families gather to celebrate, where lovers meet to look into one another’s eyes, and where businessmen joust over wine selections and who picks up the check.

The real test remains the food; we were not disappointed.

Venetico had told me the lobster ravioli and gnocchi were two of his favorites — that decided our appetizer courses.

The two dishes arrived, beautifully presented and accompanied by additional plates and spoons.

“I know you two will want to share these,” Kim, our waiter, said.

The ravioli was tender, precisely packed with mild, sweet lobster and gently tossed in a flavorful pink champagne cream sauce. And the gnocchi? We could have made this course our entrée and gone into the night fully satiated.

The handmade gnocchi were tossed in a pesto and fresh tomato sauce and provided the perfect vehicle for this pair of traditionally complimentary tastes.

Miss T.J. chose her entrée from the pasta menu, selecting angel hair pasta sautéed with shrimp, sea scallops, mushrooms, crushed red pepper and tomatoes in a saffron sauce. Again, the dish was presented in such a way that Miss T.J. let out a little sigh of delight. So many pasta dishes like this grow heavy and frequently swim in their sauces. Not so at Chef Marra’s hand: the flavors worked together subtly and pleasingly. The textures of the shrimp and scallops were to perfection, and the saffron sauce was as delicate as the gentle mound of angel hair it caressed.

I, on the other hand, had agonized with my choice of entrée. The grilled lamb chops topped with a currant Zinfandel reduction were calling my name, but so was the filet mignon encrusted with Gorgonzola — another of Venetico’s recommendations.

My choice? Honey and rosemary marinated pork tenderloin, served with roasted potatoes and carrots confit, topped with orange cherry glaze.

The pork was sliced, arranged around a mound of roasted potatoes. It was fork tender; gently savory from its marinade, and the glaze provided just the touch of sweetness that is so well paired with pork.

Crème brulee and an apple tart shared the spotlight — and our forks — for dessert. The crème brulee was classically prepared and perfect in every way — slightly chilled inside and topped with a crisp, warm, evenly-browned melted sugar. The tart was as good to eat as it was to admire, with its two tightly lined rows of apple slices and hand-formed pastry.

Sipping our coffee, I told Miss T.J. that it had occurred to me that we had indeed had a wonderful meal, but that it was also three courses of genuine comfort food —with an Italian flair. It shouldn’t have come as a surprise, I realized, especially after what Venetico had told me days earlier about what inspired him to leave a corporate executive’s post to become a restaurateur.

“I loved great food and wine,” Venetico explained, “and this had been a dream of mine for a long time. Thanks to my job, I had traveled a lot and been exposed to so much good food, that and being Italian, we love the good life — and that means great food.”

We ordered from the regular menu, passing on some made-to-order specials that were tempting, but Venetico recognizes the importance of maintaining some consistency in the menu. Il Pasticcio has a relatively stable core menu, but Venetico says the daily specials comprise a menu all their own.

In early 2005, the former private dining area overlooking Broughton Street will become a lounge. Il Pasticcio hour, from 5:30-6:30 p.m. Wednesday through Friday, finds the bar covered with free appetizers to lure after-work gatherings. Banquet facilities will double to nearly 120, with the flexibility of being divided into two areas.

The wine list is thorough, well-organized and presents some good values. The current cellar will likely see growth in 2005 as O’Sullivan and Venetico further refine the list and expand the classy, glass-walled cellar that partially surrounds the current banquet space.

This night, Venetico’s show was a hit. Everything — the food, the service, the atmosphere — were in sync and worthy of honors for cast and crew. We can’t wait for an encore.

Il Pasticcio
2 E. Broughton St.
(912) 231-8888
Monday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 5:30-11:30 p.m.
Sunday, 5:30-9:30 p.m.
Credit cards
Smoking in bar area
Handicapped accessible