AS SAVANNAH'S CULINARY SCENE DEVELOPS, it’s only natural that supply-and-demand for genuinely ethnic restaurants will emerge.

I’m not talking about the ubiquitous Mexican joints that serve lava-hot puddles of refried beans and universally generic red sauce. Nor am I referring to “giant buffets” that purport to be Chinese — but suffer from an identity crisis with sushi bars, fried chicken and green beans. And when did banana pudding become a Chinese restaurant staple?

The real ethnic restaurants are those that come closest to mimicking the style of the country from which the food originates. In many cases, these places offer food that is considered “street food” back home — hot, delicious, made-with-love and served from a roadside cart or kiosk.

Call it a blessing or a curse, U.S. health laws tend to quash roadside, itinerant eateries.   Still, I’ve uncovered a few places that serve meals just like mom made — back home in Mexico, Southeast Asia, the Middle East and the Caribbean.

No need for a passport, just bring your appetite!

 
Southeast Asia
Saigon Flavors brings Vietnamese dishes and the French Colonial influence to local diners. A good introduction is the Vietnamese crepe filled with fresh shrimp and bean sprouts or grilled lemongrass chicken — a showcase of rice vermicelli noodles and wonderfully seasoned, bite-sized pieces of grilled chicken. This dish is a party of color and tastes: lettuce, cucumbers, bean sprouts, carrot and daikon. An added shot of flavor and texture comes from ground peanuts, fried onions and fresh cilantro.
Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
6604 Waters Ave., 352-4182
 
 
Indian and Endearing
Pakwan Indian Restaurant’s location at Oglethorpe Mall may be all-American, but the food is the real deal. Sample a variety with Tandoori Thali, which includes chicken, lamb and shrimp, as well as generous helpings of Basmati rice and chutneys — and a delicious lamb-filled samosa, a deep-fried dumpling-like treat. A thick rice pudding fills the bill for dessert.
Seven days a week, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
7804 Abercorn St. (in the former location of Johnny Rockets), 353-5799

International Strip
Within a 50-yard stretch of bustling Montgomery Cross Road are three wildly different restaurants that represent a taste of the world.  Kimchi II brings us the city’s only authentic menu of Korean dishes, and I’m partial to its bibimbob. A layer of crispy sizzling rice lines the large metal serving bowl in which rows of vegetables have been arranged radiating from the center like rays of the sun. The topping of a fried egg (typically a raw yolk in its authentic preparation) cleverly disguises a generous spread of red pepper sauce. Little bowls of banchan — assorted kimchi preparations — precede every meal.
Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 4-9 p.m.
149 E. Montgomery Cross Road, 920-7273. 
 
Mi Vida Loca Restaurant is in the back room of a Hispanic market outside the back door of Kimchi. No blistering hot platters of refried beans and rice here; food is served without pretense. Sopes, toratas, burritos, tacos and tostadas form the basis of the menu. You choose fillings that are reminiscent of authentic, back-country Mexican cooking. I love the carnitas burrito (spiced, braised shredded pork) with rice, queso blanco and healthy portions of freshly chopped cilantro and white onions. A side bar offers a variety of house-made salsa and relishes. Knowing some Spanish is helpful but not necessary.
Seven days a week, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.
143 E. Montgomery Cross Road, 961-1488 
 
John’s Jamaican BBQ Jerk City is without question the city’s only restaurant serving indigenous dishes of this island nation. Chef and owner John E. brings colorful conversation and passion to the table — along with steaming plates of jerked chicken, pork or goat. Ox tails, wild-boar sausage and red snapper find homes on this menu, and every dish is prepared with seasonings John imports weekly from Jamaica. Try a side of bammies or bammy bread, a toasted flat cake made from cassava.
Monday-Thursday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.-6 p.m.
205-A E. Montgomery Cross Road, 225-4718

South African Influences
Zunzi’s has made carry-out dining wildly successful from its tiny York Street location. The menu has plenty of dishes for less-adventurous diners, but go for offerings that echo the owners’ South African roots. Boerewors on a roll spotlights house-made South African sausage served on a crispy roll with gravy, onions and mustard. Pork and chicken dishes possess the unique flavors of traditional SA seasonings that pack flavor — and some heat — into every bite.
Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-6 p.m.
108 E. York St., 443-9555
 
 
Taste of the Med
Middle Eastern Cuisine quietly caters to devoted followers with favorites such as gyros, souvlaki and moussaka. I favor Tikilia, an appetizer portion of baba ghanoush, hummus and tzatziki with two wedges of pita bread. Every dish is made fresh and to order — so don’t be in a rush.
Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
142 Montgomery St., 443-0414