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Americans consumed more than 55 billion cups of tea last year alone, and approximately 85 percent of that was served over ice. But there is a revival brewing, and many of us are returning to the traditional hot tea of our ancestors. Three local tearooms make enjoying a cup of tea a pleasurable affair.
Just 100 miles northeast of Savannah, acres and acres of Camellia Sinensis bask in the glorious Southern sun and dance on the occasional breeze. It is the growing season, and each lush, leathery green leaf seems to grow before our very eyes, reaching toward heaven. In early fall, the plants will produce a sea of delicate white blossoms.
Most people don’t know there is a tea plantation hidden in South Carolina’s Lowcountry, but there is. Located on Wadmalaw Island, The Charleston Tea Plantation is America’s only tea garden, where 127 acres of tea bushes thrive in the steamy subtropical climate, much like you would find in the hills of Sri Lanka or China.
The tea garden, owned and operated by Bigelow Teas, wowed more than 30,000 visitors last year as they toured the tea fields and watched attentively as the leaves were processed into American Classic Tea.
Ah, yes – tea, the most widely consumed beverage in the world after water. There are hundreds of different teas, each with its unique origin, aroma and flavor. Teas such as black, green, white and oolong all originate from the leaves and leaf buds of the Camellia Sinensis plant. Herbal teas are not actually teas at all but infusions of herbs and other plants.
Americans consumed more than 55 billion cups of tea last year alone, and approximately 85 percent of that was served over ice. But there is a revival brewing, and many of us are returning to the traditional hot tea of our ancestors.
The origin of tea stretches well beyond the birth of Christ, with both ancient India and China claiming the discovery as its own. Some time around 1664, the East India Company delivered its first shipment of tea to England, where it was reserved solely for the wealthy members of English society. By the middle of the 18th century, everyone was drinking tea, including the British colonists in America.
And then there was the Boston Tea Party in 1773. In protest of Britain’s Tea Act, a band of angry colonists boarded ships and pitched tea bricks into Boston Harbor.
By the turn of the 20th century, America’s social scene revolved around trendy tea establishments called tearooms, where proper young ladies could enjoy hot tea and dainty refreshments arranged elegantly on three-tiered service trays.
“One hundred years ago, tea time and tearooms catered to women, who for the first time could venture out without an escort,” remarked Elizabeth Ruby, one of the partners at The Tea Room on east Broughton Street.
“Today, both men and women enjoy the relaxation and atmosphere of tearooms, so our menu items and décor are more gender-friendly.”
Ruby’s tearoom is designed with Charles Rennie Mackintosh influence and style, having elegant simplicity and a definitive Arts and Crafts flavor.
“We indulge our clientele with white-linen dining, using vintage china and glassware and old silver-plated utensils,” said Ruby. “But we are most proud of our menu items and tea selections. You can always count on delicious food made fresh daily by our chef, Andre Baxter.”
For first-timers, Ruby recommends The Tea Room’s signature tea, Emperor’s Bride, a Finnish tea blend with bursting flavor and just enough natural sweetness to satisfy both the newcomer’s palate as well as the purist’s. If the Emperor’s Bride isn’t your cup of tea, The Tea Room has more than 90 other varieties to choose from.
“Tea is one of the ‘in’ products of our time,” Ruby added. “It has proven health benefits and is interesting to learn about. But most people drink it because they are seeking solace, and tea and the tearoom experience is very comforting and personal.”
Less than a mile away, the Gryphon Tea Room graces the bustling corner of west Charlton and Bull streets. Owned and operated by the Savannah College of Art and Design, the Gryphon is brimming with history and takes its name from small griffins that stand guard on the interior walls.
“From 1913 to 1984, the building was home to Solomon’s Apothecary, and in 1996, the ground level floor became the Gryphon Tea Room,” said Madeline Collins, general manager of the tearoom. “Our tearoom is very eclectic and showcases much of the original apothecary shop styling.”
Indeed, the Gryphon Tea Room is not traditional. Thousands of tiny white ceramic tiles adorn the tearoom’s floor, and the ceiling is draped in gold fabric. Tiffany lamps hang from intricately sculpted woodwork, and the walls showcase mammoth-sized black and white photographs by Savannah College of Art and Design alumna Chia Chiung Chong. The dining room’s focal point is a row of stained-glass windows with mortar and pestle designs.
Chef Brandon Moon creates artsy, international menu items that are as interesting as they are delicious. High tea is served from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., consisting of fanciful petit fours, light and flaky scones, fresh fruits and tea sandwiches. Elevated seating near the Bull Street window offers customers a delightful view of lingering tourists and passing carriages. The Charlton Street window seats overlook one of Savannah’s scenic squares.
“No visit to our tearoom is complete without sampling some of our tea served in your own personal teapot,” said Collins. “Our customer favorite is undoubtedly Green Rooibos Rising Sun, a tea made from sunflower blossoms, cornflowers and rose petals. It is refreshingly light and has a sweet edge.”
For the girly-girls among us, A Whimsical Tea Cup on Abercorn between 33rd and 34th streets appeals to those who love all things frilly and feminine. Sheila and Eli Delacruz opened this delightful little tea house in April of last year.
“We wanted to be different from Savannah’s other tearooms, so we chose French Country styling with lots of pink,” Sheila said. “And our tearoom has a Beatrix Potter theme, so we offer our customers an exclusive tea called Bunnies Tea Party — a lovely tea with hints of berries, cream and vanilla.”
Whether you prefer the casual gender-friendly environment of The Tea Room, the fanciful feel of A Whimsical Tea Cup or the eclectic tea bistro atmosphere of the Gryphon Tea Room, you are just minutes away from a tearoom that will surely satisfy your taste.
Tea establishments are welcoming, hospitable retreats with peaceful, relaxed atmospheres — perfect for a long, personal conversation with a friend or an hour of solitude with a good book.
Drinking tea has certainly become fashionable, and, as a result, tearooms have regained their popularity throughout the South. If you haven’t visited one of our city’s tearooms, what are you waiting for?
It’s time for tea — Savannah style.



April