­Barbeque.  Bar-b-que.  BBQ.

Regardless of the spelling — I prefer barbecue — the mere hint at the word sets mouths to watering and noses sniffing for telltale hints of delicious hickory smoke.

In our beloved South, barbecue means one thing — slow-cooking pork over low heat with plenty of smoke.  Blasphemers confuse barbecuing with “grilling out,” which means high, searing heat for a brief period of time — suitable for steaks and hot dogs.

Barbecuing requires patience, practice and shaman-like skills that recognize bringing the trinity — heat, smoke and meat — together in such a way that moistness and tenderness prevail.

Southerners are devoted to their pork.  Prior to the Civil War, it was estimated that Southerners ate about five pounds of pork for every one pound of beef.  Prevalence helped — hogs in the form of wild or feral beasts ran amok; you didn’t run across many feral herds of cattle.

And every part of the pig was eaten, including the ears, feet and other organs.  Hog-slaughtering was a time for celebration, neighborhood feasts referred to as “pig-pickin’s.”  These affairs were the beginnings of the traditional Southern barbecue.

Today, U.S. Department of Agriculture reports indicate that Southerners eat just over 52 pounds of pork per person a year — but we now consume more beef than pork.  Most of our pork consumption comes in the form of convenience cuts — such as the chop or bacon — but the remainder simply must be delicious, smoky, miraculous barbecue.

In our part of the South, we usually enjoy our barbecue as a pulled pork sandwich on a bun.  A sweet tomato-based sauce is served on the side.  When Georgians eat ribs, we’re “double seasoners” — a spicy dry rub infuses the ribs while smoking and a mopping of sauce is applied to form a glaze in the final stages of cooking.

We like our barbecue tender and moist.  Pulling away from the bone is too tender for ribs.  Perfect ribs allow a clean bite —  and then final cleaning of the bone should be easy.

Each Southern region has its own particular variety of barbecue and sauce.  Carolinians favor tangier vinegar-based sauces.  Memphis barbecue is best known for tomato- and vinegar-based sauces.  South Carolina is the only state that includes all four recognized barbecue sauces, including mustard-based, vinegar-based, and light and heavy tomato-based.  North Carolina diners often find their pulled-pork sandwiches topped with cole slaw.

Barbecue smoking is done in a pit, which calls for another stroll into the history books.

If we define barbecue as a process of cooking meat in pits, then the inventors of this process are probably the Polynesians, who have been masters of slow, pit-cooked pork for thousands of years.

Today’s “pits” are usually highly sophisticated smokers on wheels that come with five-figure price tags and powered rotisseries.

While the etymology of the word “barbecue” is somewhat shrouded in debate, a similar word surfaced in the 17th century.  On the West Indian island of Hispaniola, Arawakan Indians had a method of erecting a frame of wooden sticks over a fire in order to dry meat.  In their language, they called it a barbacòa, which Spanish explorers borrowed.

More sophisticated barbecue aficionados (those who eat ribs with their little fingers jutting skyward) prefer an alternate theory.  In their minds, “barbecue” derives from the French barbe à queue, that is, “from beard to tail,” signifying the whole of the pig being roasted.

 Which brings us to the eatin’ side of this tale.

Pork shoulder and pork butt are the preferred cuts when local ’cue smokers fire up.  The resulting hunk of meat is then chopped, generally handpicked to remove excessive fat or gristle, and served on a bun — sauce on the side.

The pulled-pork sandwich may be the foundation of the barbecue pyramid, but pork ribs, chicken, beef brisket and sausage can be found cooking in many local smokers.

Our regional generalizations of barbecue are being diluted with the opening of each new barbecue joint, whose owner may have hailed from North Carolina, Memphis or gasp, Texas — where beef rules the barbecue roost.

Up-and-comers are tampering with tradition — using fruitwoods for smoking and gas or hardwood charcoal for firing.  These same young Turks are also playing with sauces — bringing their culinary degrees to bear in concoctions that are based in such “wild” ingredients as horseradish, Chipotle peppers and pomegranate reductions.

You know what?  After my traditional senses surrender, some of these newcomers aren’t too bad.  I say, if their new-fangled ways keep smoked meats alive, come on to the party!

The great news is that barbecue joints are no longer a rural thing — out-of-the-way dives that require long drives.  Savannah is blessed to have several little smokehouses downtown and many more in the surrounding areas.  While this list is by no means comprehensive —  there are dozens of weekend-only and roadside smokers who spring up around the city —  these are among my favorites: 

 
The Original Smoke Station Bar-B-Que
6707 Waters Ave.
354-2524

Owner Matt Stallings can make some ’cue, now!  Pulled pork, baby back and spare ribs and chicken are his foundation — but don’t overlook his wonderful house-made side dishes.  I’m partial to the rough-cut Carolina-style cole slaw —  a vinegar-based dish.  His country-style green beans are old school — but you don’t need a diploma to enjoy ’em.  Outside dining, carryout.

 
Sandfly BBQ
8413 Ferguson Ave.
356-5463

John and Jeannie Latture settled in Savannah in 2007 from the Memphis area and promptly brought that region’s influence to the barbecue they serve in the Sandfly community.  Pork, ribs, chicken, beef and sausage.  John’s dry rub is delicious — and I’m partial to the bakedpotato salad.  Eat in or carryout.

 
Sweet Leaf Smokery and Eatery
606 Abercorn St.
447-5444

This upscale barbecue restaurant offers pulled pork, chipped beef, ribs and chicken.  Oddly, they never use the word “barbecue” on the menu — preferring instead to use the word “smoked” as a substitute.  Regardless the eccentricity, the barbecue, errr, smoked meats, are delicious.  The menu offers options for vegetarians, a wonderful Granny Smith apple cole slaw and Pabst Blue Ribbon Tall Boys.  Eat in, outside, carryout.

 
Angel’s BBQ
21 W. Oglethorpe Lane
495-0902

Tucked into an alley behind Independent Presbyterian Church, Angel’s BBQ is an inviting little dive tended to by devoted owners Aileen and Andrew Trice.  The simple and carefully crafted menu features pulled and chopped pork, chicken and BBQ bologna.  Sample the unusual West African-inspired collards with peanuts.  Andrew has created some hellishly spiced dry rubs — and the sauce is as delicious as the barbecue is awesome.  Eat in, outside, carryout.

 
Gerald’s Diner
324 W. Bolton St.
495-9666

Gerald Schantz prepares awesome meat and two specials everyday, but I’m partial to the barbecue, which was the genesis of his diner at the corner of Bolton and Montgomery streets.  From his smoker you’ll find pulled pork, beef brisket, chicken and ribs.  Don’t miss his mac-and-cheese!  Eat in, outside, carry out.

 
Wall’s Barbecue
515 E. York Lane
232-9754

Natives and visitors alike love the hole-in-the-wall feel of Wall’s — and sing the praises of the pork, chicken and ribs —  as well as the variety of mustard-based sauces.  The trick is finding Wall’s open.  It was closed all winter, but a sign in the door claimed a reopening in April.  Call ahead, then fire up the GPS device — it’s tough to find!

 
Two Bubbas Barbecue
57 Coffee Bluff Villa Road
921-1144

These two brothers (Tudor and Dragosh Negreas) of Romanian-born parents grew up in Georgia and bring fine-dining influences to a six-pack of sauces that include traditional favorites, as well as sauces based with horseradish or smoked chiles.  Pulled pork, chicken, ribs.  Try the fried pickles, smoked corn, collard greens and baked beans. Dining is outside.

 
Blowin’ Smoke Barbecue
514 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.
(telephone number not available at publication)

The newest player in the Savannah barbecue field is this very upscale barbecue-focused restaurant opened by Brain Huskey, who has also made B. Matthew’s Eatery a top-flight dining destination.  Huskey is letting his Tennessee roots shine with pork, ribs and chicken plus creative and delicious sauces.  Excellent selection of beers and inviting surroundings.  Eat in, outside, carryout.

 
Pit Stop
2107 U.S. Highway 80 W.
964-1185

This roadside dive keeps it simple — pulled pork, chicken, ribs and beef.  Outdoor seating is shielded by plastic in the winter — but that doesn’t keep regulars from bundling up against the cold for  mountainous sandwiches prepared by owner Lonnie Oglesby.  Excellent collard greens.

 
Baxter’s Barbeque
1304 E. U.S. Highway 80
Bloomingdale
748-1920

I first sampled Baxter’s Barbeque while attending a bluegrass concert right next door at Randy Wood’s Concert Hall, a performance venue established by legendary luthier Randy Woods.  Very good pulled pork, chicken, ribs — and a great house-made sauce are the hallmarks of this hard-to-find-open eatery.  Call ahead for hours. Dine outside, carry out.

 
Bryan’s Pink Pig Bar-B-Que
S.C. Highway 170 A
Levy, S.C.
843-784-3635

Sometimes, you just gotta take a road trip to satisfy your ’cue fix.  That’s when I head to Pink Pig in Levy — a high spot on the road between Savannah and Bluffton.  The chopped pork is very good — ask for sauce on the side so you can sample the variety of homemade, Carolina-inspired sauces.  Call ahead for hours.  Eat in, carry out.

Tim Rutherford writes about restaurants for Savannah Magazine and publishes the food and dining Web site www.savannahfoodie.com.  He has been known to occasionally smoke his own pork shoulder.