Fired Up

Backyard BBQ offers low-and-slow, to-go

Photography courtesy of Cohen’s Retreat

 A REPURPOSED STORAGE shed houses Cohen’s Retreat’s latest, delicious venture: a takeout-only barbecue joint called Backyard BBQ. If you get lost (easy to do at the sprawling, multi-use Retreat) look for the vintage red pick-up truck out front — or simply follow your nose.

The Backyard BBQ menu is eclectic, offering classic options like pulled pork, ribs and other smoked meats alongside wildcard creations like Charleston-style hot wings and Frito pie. Behind it all is pitmaster Sean Goggin, who draws inspira­tion from all over the (Southern) map.

“I have to pay homage, because we’re in the middle of three regions,” Goggin says, noting style influences from the Carolinas and his native state of Texas. “But it really is Savannah-style,” he says.

Backyard BBQ’s secret sauce is the fact it’s to-go only, allowing busy folks to grab something quick — something that took hours to make — and enjoy it at home. “We want people to have a nice dinner, but we want to be approachable,” Goggins says.

On Instagram, @CohensRestaurant lists hours and specials for Backyard BBQ, which is usually open for takeout from 3 to 7 p.m. on Thursdays and Fridays. And if carnivores can’t decide what to order, the pitmaster himself has a recommenda­tion: “Come for the brisket.”

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